Natural Indigo: Creating & Maintaining a Living Vat

Unlike synthetic or mordant reliant dye processes, a living indigo vat relies on natural reduction and can be maintained for months or even years, similar to cultivating a sourdough starter.

Class will begin by exploring the science behind indigo fermentation and the role of reduction in creating the perfect dye environment. Students will learn to identify quality natural indigo, prepare it properly, and combine it with organic reduction materials including fructose, henna, and calcium hydroxide. Participants will set up their own vat starter while learning the visual and aromatic signs of a healthy fermentation process.

As these vats develop, students will learn how to test pH levels, reading the "flower" (the metallic surface sheen), and understanding the appearance of a properly reduced vat. Students will learn troubleshooting techniques and maintenance routines, including feeding schedules and temperature control. Each participant will dye several test samples to understand the vat's behavior and learn proper dipping techniques. Students will take home their fabric samples and their own natural indigo vat starter to either dye in directly or use to make their own vat.